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February 11, 2016
Younger Designers Take Spotlight Throughout Milan Trend Week
MILAN (AP) — A recent breeze buffeted Italy’s style capital in the course of the second day of Milan Vogue Week on Sunday, each literally, bringing relief from the June heat, and salvatore ferragamo saffiano leather wallet figuratively, as young designers took the highlight.
They introduced with them fresh silhouettes with new proportions and reinterpretations of previous summertime favorites from linens to stripes.
Here are highlights from menswear previews Sunday in Milan for next spring and summer season:
TEXTURES AT FERRAGAMO
Guillaume Meilland’s second collection for Ferragamo is inspired by the Mediterranean coastline shared by his native France and adopted Italy.
The appears to be like are defined by texture: cable-knit fishermen’s sweaters, velvety shorts, corduroy trousers and suede laser cut tops, all hearty fare for wind-swept seaside strolls. The designer additionally added touches of whimsy like sea horse prints and coral key chains.
“Sure I like the thought of getting, for me, one thing very Italian, one thing very a lot linked to the thought of the holidays and the seaside,” Meilland said backstage. “Textures, colors, we are trying mix mushy velvet, English fabrics and heavy linens … The fluid and one thing extra rough.”
The seems to be mixed for an effortless silhouette that Meilland mentioned was inspired by the 1960 French movie “Purple Noon,” primarily based on the Patricia Highsmith’s “Ripley” novels.
Ferragamo’s footwear included penny loafers or slip on moccasins with rubber soles adorned with the trademark buckle for the city or rope accents for the seaside.
Italian rapper Ghali honed in on a pair of velvety shorts with a sea horse print on a golden background from the front row of Ferragamo’s show for subsequent spring and summer season.
“I actually like the collection. I like plenty of the textures that I saw,” said Ghali, a Milan native whose new album, titled “Album,” is being promoted with an advert on the Duomo cathedral.
BRUTALISM AT BIKKEMBERGS
Lee Wood laid the seams naked at Dirk Bikkembergs during his second season as its inventive director.
The clear assortment revealed the construction details that create rhythms with their repetition, from the patchwork trousers to the intarsia knitwear.
Wood mentioned he was impressed by the brutalism architectural movement of the late 1960s and early 1970s that stood towards adornment.
“I wanted it to be brutal. I wished it to be trustworthy. I wanted it to be like men ought to be,” Lee stated backstage. “I don’t wish to see men all pretty and excellent. I feel a man should be rugged.”
The strains were simple, with neat T-shirts with scooped necks paired with urban patchwork trousers cut from pure fabrics. The cuffs were turned as much as reveal the tough seam. Heavy boots and utilitarian sandals anchored the seems to be.
Swimsuit jackets have been worn with shorts that were nearly bloomers in proportion, a fob to summer season, while some trousers have been festooned with maxi-pockets. Tops, by contrast, had been tender, like one which was a patchwork of gold, light blue and white.
Whereas the supplies have been principally pure fibers and the colour palette primarily based on hues of blue, white and slate grey, the gathering closed with flashes of inexperienced and salvatore ferragamo saffiano leather wallet Japanese technical fabric.
YOLO FROM KOREA
Korean designer Munsoo Kwon made his Milan debut in the Armani theater with a group that contained some measure of autobiography.
The triptych collection consists of items based on European tailoring, Korean navy wear and a collection of character seems. The thread that connects them all: The YOLO phenomenon, beforehand, before the invention of abbreviation-loving social media, often called “You Solely Stay As soon as.”
The 37-12 months-outdated Kwon expresses his whimsy with out-of-proportion cuts: Boyish striped sweaters which can be a part of his character sequence are gigantic with huge, trailing arms, dwarfing the wearer.
The military seems are elongated and smooth, not your traditional regimented rendering. And the tailored outfits are clear and elegant, that includes pinstripe pants with long belts worn with a pajama-inspired prime and a trench coat with bell sleeves.