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September 26, 2015
Salvatore Ferragamo Fall 2018 Menswear Assortment
Guillaume Meilland, the newly appointed Salvatore Ferragamo men’s design director, presented his first show right now. To mark the occasion, he hit the refresh button, starting from a redesign of the show area, giving it a extra open, industrial feel, which suited the collection’s streamlined, urban allure. It also set the tone for his attitude towards the Florentine house’s codes: respectful, however not reverential.
Meilland cut his teeth on menswear at Saint Laurent throughout Stefano Pilati’s tenure, earlier than departing for Lanvin, where he worked with Lucas Ossendrijver for roughly eight years. It’s safe to say he knows a thing or two about French allure. Yet the Italian flair for elegance and absolutely the excellence of its savoir faire fascinates him. “I’d prefer to bridge the Italian sartorial finesse with a trendy sportswear edge, as well as blending traditional strategies with new applied sciences,” he stated at a preview a couple of days earlier than the present. He professed his admiration for Salvatore Ferragamo, the house’s maestro, whose curiosity and open spirit he found inspiring: “He was up to discover and experiment, discovering new methods to inject his Italian sense of luxe with a global method.”
Meilland labored on streamlining the silhouette, elongating coats, slimming and narrowing pants, and shortening jackets’ proportions. Volumes have been given a light, supple feel, which didn’t detract from a dry architectural bent that revealed the designer’s penchant for a pointy, trendy edge. He kept it in test, though, smoothing it with an emphasis on a exact but refined sensuality and using the best fabrics, parts so ingrained in many Italian menswear corporations, they’re even more sacred than the nationwide anthem.
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