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September 10, 2014
Inside Ferragamo’s Resort Footwear Collection
Not too long ago, Paul Andrew, the British shoe designer who now lives in New York Metropolis, discovered himself sitting in a big Gothic palace in Florence, Italy, almost entirely crammed with shoes. “There were over 15,000 pairs,” he recalls, nonetheless bemused. Frescos—faded from time however no less transcendent—sprawled above his head, whereas gilded moldings decorated almost every nook and cranny in sight. It was the Palazzo Spini Feroni, a medieval mansion initially in-built 1289 by the service provider Geri Spini that now homes the archives of Salvatore Ferragamo.
Final September, the artistic, who has brownish blond hair neatly combed within the gentlest quaff, joined the fashion house as its new design director overlooking women’s footwear. A yr later, he’s become artistic director across all ready-to-wear, accessories, and leather-based items, and the like.
Born in rural England, Andrew recalls an early interest in style. His father labored as an upholsterer for the British Royal Family, whereas his mom delighted with him in the glamour of Christian Lacroix and the like. Within the young boy’s spare time, he’d digest copies of Vogue. Later, while studying on the Berkshire School of Art & Design, a professor instructed footwear as his focus. Andrew’s first realized collection debuted at London’s Graduate Vogue Week, seizing the attention of veteran fashion buyer Yasmin Sewell and resulting in an apprenticeship for Lee McQueen. Soon after, Andrew journeyed to NYC, where he launched Narciso Rodriguez’s footwear line, worked for Calvin Klein, and designed for Donna Karan for practically a decade.
In 2012, Andrew began his own namesake line of ladylike, single-sole footwear that supplied a timeless edge with purple-carpet grace. Two years later, he grew to become the first shoe designer to win the CFDA/Vogue Style Fund, and has since been nominated twice for the Swarovski Award for Accessory Design, taking it house the second ferragamo blush time around this past year.
Flower Heel Sandal with gold hardware element, $1,190.
Obtainable at Salvatore Ferragamo boutiques.
At Ferragamo, Andrew’s process has been reinterpretation. How can one revisit the previous in new and compelling ways “Everything I do relies on what I’ve found from the archives,” he explains. “The problem is distilling these very private notions from eighty years in the past and making them very fashionable for today.” The house’s eponym was famous for many things—Hollywood curiosity, exaggerated drama, Florentine charm—but maybe nothing is more related to this than his innovation in design. Salvatore Ferragamo’s work was architectural and revolutionary, from the crocodile stilettos he made for Marilyn Monroe (“it’s fairly humbling to ferragamo blush hold these,” laughs Andrew) to the iconic F-formed heel, for which the founding designer received the Neiman Marcus Award in 1947. First introduced as a sandal, the design references its maker’s name, but in addition mimics the curvature of the letter “F” in cursive. “The approach the heel defies gravity, individuals have a look at it and ask if it’s even potential to be worn!” says Andrew, who rendered the shoe in a brand new version for the house’s 2018 Resort assortment.
Flower Heel Slipper with floral print, $495.
Obtainable at Salvatore Ferragamo boutiques.
Based on an unique drawing by the founder, the reinvented model is slightly extra underslung and sits a bit higher, says Andrew. “Salvatore was only capable of cowl the heel with a seam because it was such an extreme curve that leather-based couldn’t be molded over the shape. I had a bit more assist by today’s know-how.” Andrew’s new F Heel joins a seasonal line that very much reflects his ultimate effort for the trend house: reconciling the long run with the past.
As a inventive, Ferragamo was usually fascinated by floral motifs; in homage Andrew revisited the Covent Backyard flower markets of his youth to find Resort inspiration. The pictures he took there turned the idea of the graphic printed silks in the gathering, meant to additionally reference the house’s own iconic scarves. Andrew also reconsidered Ferragamo’s 1939 Flower Heel silhouette. “It’s turn into the most main inspiration to me,” he smiles. “The heel proportion has been reworked and now is available in stiletto and block heel variations. It’s additionally being used on buttons in ready-to-put on and on baggage.”
“F” Wedge in blue satin and gold galvanized heel, $1,600.
Available at Salvatore Ferragamo boutiques.
With lively purples and lush greens, Ferragamo’s coloration palette this season is more vibrant than ever. The iris flower, which details Andrew’s prints, is a logo of Florence, yes, but perhaps is also emblematic of the vogue house on this new chapter. “I’m honing in on sophistication,” says the designer, “but additionally amusement. Salvatore was such a brave designer.